Ramblings from the Hive

September 25, 2026 • | By: Craig Midgett

How to Use a Honey Warming Cabinet for Decrystallizing

1. Understanding the HillCo Warming/Cooling Cabinet The HillCo Warming/Cooling Cabinet works as both a honey warmer and a cooling unit, switchable between modes with separate controls for each. The controls are straightforward: switch to heating or cooling, then use the +/- buttons to set the desired temperature. The cabinet holds one 5-gallon bucket or up to 60 one-pound bottles. It comes with 3 shelves for placing bottles of extracted honey. Remove the shelves to fit a bucket. The walls and door are insulated, and the unit cycles on and off to maintain the set temperature. Maximum warming temperature is 125°F. The cooling range runs from 35°F to 65°F. Pre-heating or pre-cooling is not required since the cabinet volume is not very large, but it is an option. 2. Warming Honey for Bottling Honey flows more consistently at warmer temperatures, which matters for clean, even fills. For general storage, 90°F keeps honey warm and discourages crystallization. When you are ready to bottle, raise the temperature to 95°F to bring honey to a workable viscosity for consistent pours. Both settings stay well below the range that could affect honey quality. 3. Decrystallizing Honey Crystallization is a natural process, not a quality problem. Place crystallized jars or buckets in the cabinet set to 100 to 105°F. Smaller containers need less time and lower temperatures than larger ones. A 5-gallon bucket typically takes around 48 hours. Bottles generally take 24 to 48 hours. Beneficial enzymes found in honey begin to degrade at 104°F, but below 120°F the degradation is negligible. Above 122°F, enzyme degradation accelerates. Not until honey reaches 140°F are all enzymes destroyed. Minimize time at higher temperatures to reduce risk. Monitor the honey and decrease the temperature once it has returned to liquid. A bucket with some remaining crystals can finish decrystallizing in a heated bottling tank. 4. Creamed Honey Creamed honey is the result of controlled crystallization that produces a smooth, spreadable texture. The cooling mode of the cabinet handles the curing step. Set the cabinet to cooling and dial in the temperature that fits your creaming process. The curing range runs from 35 to 57°F, and the process typically takes 2 to 3 weeks. Creamed honey can be stored in the cabinet at the same temperature range indefinitely. To prepare honey for creaming, warm it in the cabinet at 100°F for approximately 24 hours before seeding and batching. 5. Using the Cabinet for Markets and Display Some beekeepers use the warming cabinet as a standalone display at stores, farmers markets, and boutiques. Setting it to 90°F discourages crystallization, which means the honey stays clear and liquid on the shelf. This allows a beekeeper to stock larger amounts at a retail location without the risk of bottles crystallizing before they sell, and it reduces the number of trips needed to restock. The cabinet also makes for an attractive, professional display. 6. Other Uses Some customers have used the warming cabinet as an incubator for queen cells. This is not an intended use by HillCo, but it has been reported. On the other end, the cooling mode works for keeping cold drinks on hand during extraction day for you and your crew. 7. Temperature Quick-Reference Guide Use / Process Temperature Time Notes Storage in bottles or buckets 90°F — Keeps honey warm, discourages crystallization Warming buckets for bottling 90–95°F — Brings honey to a workable temperature for bottling Decrystallizing buckets 100–105°F ~48 hours Used to return crystallized honey to a liquid state Decrystallizing bottles 100°F 24–48 hours Gentle warming for bottled crystallized honey Warming honey for creaming 100°F ~24 hours Prepares honey for the creaming process Setting / curing creamed honey 35–57°F 2–3 weeks Cooling range for creamed honey to properly set Storing creamed honey 35–57°F Indefinitely Suitable range for long-term storage Refrigerator use 35–57°F — Warming cabinet can also be used as a refrigerator when cooling is required 8. Common Mistakes to Avoid Use 90°F for maintaining liquid honey and discouraging crystallization. Higher settings are only needed for decrystallizing or bottling prep. Do not leave honey in the cabinet for extended periods with the temperature set above 104°F. The longer honey sits at elevated temperatures, the greater the risk of enzyme degradation. [SPLIT] How Do You Use a Honey Warming Cabinet? A honey warming cabinet is a temperature-controlled unit that heats or cools honey for different stages of processing. For bottling, set it between 90 and 95°F to bring honey to a pourable consistency. For decrystallizing, place crystallized containers inside at 100 to 105°F and monitor until the honey returns to liquid. For creamed honey, switch to cooling mode and hold between 35 and 57°F for a 2 to 3 week curing period. The cabinet also serves as a retail display at markets and stores, keeping bottles at 90°F so they stay liquid on the shelf. Avoid leaving honey above 104°F for prolonged periods, since sustained heat at higher temperatures increases the risk of enzyme degradation. [/SPLIT]

September 11, 2026 • | By: Craig Midgett

How to Prepare Beehives for Winter A Complete Fall Checklist

Why Winter Prep Starts Before Cold Weather Colonies begin raising winter bees in late summer and early fall. These are the bees that will live through the cold months, and the conditions under which they develop are shaped by what the beekeeper does now, not in November. Varroa levels, food stores, and hive configuration all need to be addressed while colonies are still active enough to respond to management decisions. 1. Assess Colony Strength A colony going into winter needs enough bees to form and maintain a cluster. Look at three things: how many frames are covered by bees, how many frames of brood the colony is still raising, and whether the colony is in the right-sized hive. The population should be able to fill the space and still have room for stored resources. Check queen status. A colony with a failing or absent queen heading into fall does not have time to build the winter population it needs. 2. Check Honey and Food Stores The amount of stored honey a colony needs depends on location and climate. A general benchmark is 40 pounds for southern states, 60 pounds for the middle of the country, and 80 pounds for northern climates. These are starting points. Consult local beekeeping clubs or extension resources for guidance specific to your area. Assess stores by hefting the hive from the back, counting full frames of capped honey, or weighing the hive. A colony that feels light heading into October needs attention before feeding becomes impractical. 3. Fall Feeding Use 2:1 sugar syrup (two parts sugar to one part water) after the fall flow to boost colony resources to the recommended level for your region. Feed while daytime temperatures are still warm enough for bees to take down and cure the syrup. Once daytime highs consistently fall below 50°F, switch to solid feed. Fondant patties like Turbo™ Fondant or the mountain camp method (dry sugar placed directly above the cluster) provide carbohydrates without introducing liquid which introduces humidity in the hive, which can create condensation, and which the bees cannot process in cold weather. 4. Check Varroa Levels Varroa management is especially critical before winter bee production begins. Decide on a mite treatment regimen that yields low Varroa counts by late summer, when colonies start raising the bees that will carry the hive through winter. Use a Varroa Check tool to monitor levels rather than assuming a previous treatment worked. Assess mite levels 30 days after treatment to confirm the treatment actually reduced the population. The target going into winter is below 1 percent. Treat additionally as needed to reach that threshold. 5. Choose the Right Fall Treatment Colonies approaching fall with mite levels still above 1 percent need a knock-down treatment. Apiguard, Formic Pro, and oxalic acid vapor are three options during this period. Follow the label instructions for temperature restrictions and whether honey supers need to be removed before application. Treatment choice depends on current conditions, colony status, and what the product label allows for your situation. 6. Reduce to the Right Winter Configuration Remove unnecessary equipment and empty supers. Reduce the hive to the space the colony population can actually fill. Consolidate resources near or just above the brood nest so the winter cluster has easy access to food when it needs it. For hives with screened bottom boards, insert the bottom closer or swap to a solid bottom board. A single-deep colony with limited resources benefits from a feeding shim on top, which creates space for mountain camp sugar or a fondant patty later in the season. 7. Prepare for Robbing and Pests Reduce entrances during the fall as robbing pressure can increase. A smaller entrance is easier for the colony to defend. Install a mouse guard before temperatures drop low enough for mice to seek shelter inside the hive. Mice can damage comb and disturb the cluster once they move in. 8. Moisture, Ventilation, and Insulation Condensation forming on the underside of the lid and dripping onto the winter cluster is a significant winter threat. Bees can survive being cold, and they can survive being wet, but it’s hard for them to survive being cold AND wet. How you address winter moisture in the hive depends on the approach you choose and the climate you are in. A ventilated hive uses an upper entrance or a ventilation shim to allow humid air to escape before it can condense under the lid. Or beekeepers can use a moisture board or quilt box under the lid to catch condensation before it falls on the cluster. This is the traditional approach with wooden hive equipment. A condensing hive, typical with insulated equipment like Hive365, redirects condensation to collect on the side walls rather than dripping onto the cluster. The hive stays sealed, and additional insulation in the top cover prevents the inner surface of the lid from getting cold enough to form condensation that drips directly onto the bees. Insulated hives and wrapping are more common in northern climates with severe winters, but insulated equipment is useful in southern regions as well for moderating temperature swings. There is no single correct setup for every beekeeper. Make the decision based on your region, your equipment, and what has worked in your local conditions. 9. Inspect Your Equipment Go through every box, bottom board, and cover before closing the hive up for winter. Look for cracks, rot, warping, and any damage that would let in rain, snow, or drafts. Damaged equipment should be repaired or replaced now, not discovered in January. Check feeders and confirm they are functional for any emergency feeding that may be needed. 10. Final Fall Inspection Checklist Item Colony strength assessed (population, brood, queen) ☐ Colony in the right-sized hive for its population ☐ Food stores checked against regional benchmark ☐ Supplemental feeding completed or plan in place ☐ Varroa levels checked ☐ Treatment completed and post-treatment levels verified (<1%) ☐ Unnecessary supers and equipment removed ☐ Resources consolidated near the brood nest ☐ Bottom board closed or swapped to solid ☐ Entrance reduced and mouse guard installed ☐ Moisture and ventilation strategy set for your climate ☐ Equipment inspected for damage ☐ Winter feed plan ready (fondant, mountain camp, or candy board) ☐ [SPLIT] How Do You Prepare Beehives for Winter? Fall hive preparation covers colony strength, food reserves, Varroa control, hive sizing, and weather protection. Begin by confirming the queen is laying, the population can form a viable cluster, and stored honey meets the benchmark for your region. Feed 2:1 syrup while bees can still process it, then transition to solid feed once daily highs stay below 50°F. Bring mite counts under 1 percent while colonies are still producing winter bees. Size the hive to match the actual population, close the bottom board, reduce the entrance, and choose a moisture strategy suited to your climate and equipment. All of this needs to be done before temperatures drop for good. [/SPLIT]

September 11, 2026 • | By: Craig Midgett

How to Clean and Store Your Honey Bottling Equipment After the Season

Do Not Just Put It Away Until Next Season Some common post-season mistakes are leaving equipment wet and leaving it uncovered. Stainless steel can develop surface rust when moisture sits in crevices during storage. The rust cleans off easily with a light abrasive like Barkeeper's Friend, but the problem is preventable with proper drying. Uncovered equipment also attracts rodents and insects that can nest in stored hoses, tanks, and fittings over the off-season. 1. What to Do After Your Last Bottling Run Clean the equipment before honey has time to dry or crystallize inside the system. Start by detaching all valves, hoses, fittings, and nipples from your bottling tank and any automatic bottling machines. Detach all removable components: valves, hoses, fittings, nipples. Wash everything thoroughly in hot, soapy water. Standard household hot water works. An on-demand water heater set to 140°F speeds up cleaning. Use a pitcher and funnel, or a 60ml livestock syringe, to rinse the gear box intake and output ports and the intake port and line in the filler. To clean the gear box, use the Speed-Fill to draw hot soapy water through the system to clear honey, then rinse with clean water. Use forced air to clear remaining water from the gear box. If needed, you can remove the blue adhesive dots and the bolts holding the clear cover on to finish drying the gearbox. Replace the cover and cover the fittings with painters tape before storing for the season. Wipe the exterior with a warm, damp cloth. Follow with a dry, absorbent cloth to prevent water spotting. 2. Cleaning the Speed-Fill The Speed-Fill follows the same cleaning process as the rest of the bottling setup. Hot water with or without mild dish detergent is all that is needed to remove honey, even dried honey. One important note: the electronics display and keypad should not get wet. Clean the rest of the unit normally but keep water away from those components. Detach the suction hose and nozzles for separate washing and drying. Flush the internal lines with hot water using a syringe or funnel to clear any remaining honey. 3. Why Complete Drying Matters Stainless steel is rust resistant, not rust proof. Moisture left in cracks, crevices, or inside fittings during storage will cause surface corrosion over the off-season. Lubricating the rod also helps decrease rust and prepares the equipment for next use. To dry, use forced air to blow water out of tight spots, or wipe surfaces with a cloth and then run a fan over the equipment overnight. Do not store anything until it is fully dry. 4. Inspect Before You Store Confirm everything is thoroughly dry. Inspect for signs of wear or damage. Lubricate moving parts with food-safe lubricant. Replace any worn components before next season. HillCo stocks replacement nozzles, suction hoses, and shut-off valve adapters for the Speed-Fill system. 5. Should You Disconnect or Leave It Set Up? The answer depends on how often the equipment is in use. Bottling regularly throughout the year: leave the system connected and full of honey. No need to disassemble and clean between uses. Not bottling or adding fresh honey for two months or more: disassemble and clean. Honey left sitting too long will crystallize inside lines and fittings, making it harder to clear later. The exact timeline depends on how quickly your honey crystallizes. Contaminants introduced to the system (wax, fermented honey, debris): disassemble and clean immediately regardless of schedule. 6. Storing Equipment for the Off-Season Store all cleaned and dried equipment in a climate-controlled space. Temperature swings and humidity accelerate corrosion on mechanical parts and can damage electronic wiring. Cover every stored unit to prevent rodents and insects from nesting inside. 7. Before Your First Bottling Run Next Season Inspect all components for corrosion, wear, or pest damage. Reassemble anything that was stored separately. Confirm all parts are clean and dry before reconnecting. [SPLIT] How Do You Clean and Store Honey Bottling Equipment? Start by disassembling all removable components after the final bottling run. Wash everything in hot water with mild detergent, flush internal ports and lines, and make sure every surface is completely dry before putting anything into storage. Trapped moisture leads to corrosion on metal parts, so thorough drying is not optional. Store cleaned equipment in a controlled environment, covered to prevent pest intrusion. Any system sitting idle for two or more months should be disassembled and cleaned rather than left with honey inside, since crystallization makes later cleaning considerably more difficult. [/SPLIT]

October 02, 2026 • | By: HillCo Staff

Natural Varroa Mite Treatment Options for Beekeepers

What Counts as a Natural Varroa Treatment? In beekeeping, natural Varroa treatments refer to products and techniques that avoid synthetic chemical miticides. This includes treatments derived from organic acids and plant compounds, as well as hive management practices that disrupt the mite's reproductive cycle. These methods are approved for use in many organic beekeeping programs, though regulations vary by region. Natural does not automatically mean gentler on bees or more effective. Each method has specific requirements for temperature, timing, and application that affect how well it works. [SPLIT] Understanding Varroa Mites Varroa destructor is a parasitic mite that feeds on honey bees and reproduces inside capped brood cells. Left unchecked, mite populations build through the season and weaken a colony heading into winter, significantly hindering its chance of survival. Regular monitoring with an alcohol wash or sugar shake tells you where your colonies stand so you can make an education decision on how to respond. Organic Acid Treatments Formic acid is one of the most widely used natural Varroa treatments because it is the only organic acid that reaches mites inside sealed brood cells. It is applied as ready-to-use strips that lay across the top bars for a set treatment period. Formic acid works during active brood rearing, which makes it practical for post-honey harvest treatment when colonies are still raising brood. Oxalic acid is another organic acid option with two main delivery methods. Vaporization heats oxalic acid tablets or bulk crystals to produce a vapor that settles on bees and on surfaces inside the hive, killing mites on contact. It works best during broodless periods when mites are not protected within capped brood cells and all mites on adult bees are exposed to the vapor. VarroxSan slow-release oxalic acid strips offer an extended-release alternative that is spread by contact with bees and remains effective in the hive for several weeks, covering multiple brood cycles. Essential Oil-Based Treatments Thymol, derived from the herb thyme, is the active ingredient in Apiguard. It is applied as a gel tray placed on the top bars. Bees distribute the thymol through the hive as they work to remove it. Apiguard needs daytime temperatures consistently above 60°F to be effective. It is best used in the warmer months after the honey flow ends but it can be harsh on the colony if used in extreme summer heat. Mechanical Methods Drone comb removal is one of the oldest mechanical approaches to Varroa management. Varroa mites preferentially reproduce in drone brood because of the longer development cycle. Placing a green drone comb frame in the hive, letting the bees draw it out and the queen lay in it, then removing and freezing the capped drone brood pulls mites out of the colony without any chemical application. This method slows mite reproduction but does not knock down established populations on its own. Common Natural Treatment Methods Method Active Ingredient Application Key Considerations Formic acid Formic acid Strips placed across brood frames Penetrates capped brood, temperature sensitive Oxalic acid (vaporization) Oxalic acid Vaporized into the hive Strongest during broodless periods Oxalic acid (strips) Oxalic acid Slow-release strips in the hive Extended release over several weeks Thymol-based (Apiguard) Thymol (essential oil) Gel trays on top bars Temperature dependent, strong odor Drone comb removal None (mechanical) Remove capped drone brood Reduces reproduction sites, labor intensive Timing Matters Treatment timing matters as much as treatment choice. Most natural Varroa treatments go on after the honey flow when supers are off the hive. Late summer is the critical window because mite populations peak in August and September, and colonies need to produce healthy winter bees to survive until spring. A mite count above 1 percent typically calls for treatment. Run a mite check before treating to confirm action is necessary. After the treatment period, test again to verify the product worked. Skipping the follow-up is one of the most common mistakes beekeepers make with Varroa management. What Are the Natural Treatment Options for Varroa Mites? The primary natural Varroa mite treatment options fall into three groups. Formic acid is unique among organic acids because it works during active brood rearing, treating mites under wax cappings that other treatments cannot reach. Oxalic acid is most effective during broodless periods and can be applied by vaporization or as sustained-release strips. Thymol, the active compound in Apiguard, requires consistent warmth and is placed on top bars after the honey flow. Drone comb removal is a popular mechanical option, reducing mite reproduction by removing drone brood. No single method eliminates Varroa alone. Effective management depends on regular monitoring, properly timed treatment, and a post-treatment mite count to confirm the product worked. Always follow dosage and temperature guidelines.

July 29, 2026 • | By: HillCo Staff

Triangle Escape Board vs. Fume Board for Harvesting Honey

What Is a Bee Escape Board? A bee escape board is a flat board that sits between the honey super and the brood box. It uses a one-way exit, typically a triangle-shaped maze or a Porter bee escape, that lets bees move down into the brood area but prevents them from returning to the super above. Triangle bee escape boards use angled channels that guide bees toward a small center opening. Bees can find the exit easily from above, but the design blocks their path back up into the super. It takes roughly 2 days for bees to clear the supers above the escape board. Most beekeepers use a blower to remove any bees that remain in the supers. What Is a Fume Board? A fume board is a hive-cover-sized board lined with absorbent material. A bee-safe repellent, like Honey-B-Gone, is applied to the liner, and the board is placed on top of the honey super. Heat from the sun warms the repellent, and the fumes drive bees down and out of the super, usually within five to ten minutes. Fume boards work best on warm, sunny days when temperatures are high enough to activate the repellent. On cloudy or cool days, the process slows down or may not work at all. Follow the product instructions closely, since too much repellent or leaving the board on too long can affect honey flavor. Triangle Escape Boards vs. Fume Boards Triangle Escape Board Fume Board Speed 24-48 hours 10-15 minutes Weather dependent No Yes, needs warm sun Bee disruption Low Moderate Best for Smaller operations, gentler clearing Faster results, less labor Extra supplies needed None after purchase Repellent (reapply each use) Timing Place 1-2 days before harvest Use the same day How to Use a Bee Escape Board Place the bee escape board below the lowest honey super you plan to pull. Leave for 24-48 hours. Remove the supers and the escape board after the 24-48 hour period. Some straggler bees may remain which are easy to remove with a bee brush or even a battery powered blower. How to Use a Fume Board for Bee Apply repellent to the absorbent liner according to the product directions. Set the fume board on top of the honey super and let the sun heat it. After 10-15 minutes, check the super. Once bees have moved down, pull the super and move to the next one. Some straggler bees may remain which are easy to remove with a bee brush or even a battery powered blower. Which Method Is Better for Your Harvest? Neither method is universally better. The right choice depends on the size of your operation, the weather, and how your harvest day is structured. Escape boards work well for beekeepers who can plan ahead and want a low-disruption approach. Escape boards require extra labor and time by handling the supers twice – once to place the escape board and a second time, 1-2 days later to remove the supers and the escape board. Fume boards are better suited for use on warm sunny days and require less lifting labor but often require you to go super by super. Some beekeepers keep both on hand. A cloudy forecast, a good apiary team or hive lifting tools may push you toward escape boards. A hot day with multiple fume boards in operation can clear many supers for same day results. HillCo stocks both escape boards and fume boards alongside honey removal and extracting accessories, so beekeepers can choose the method that fits their apiary and their schedule. [SPLIT]

July 29, 2026 • | By: HillCo Staff

Manual or Motorized Honey Extractor? How to Choose?

Manual vs. Motorized Honey Extractor: What's the Difference? Both are centrifugal honey extractors. They hold uncapped frames in a drum and spin them to eject honey out of the comb. The difference is what powers the spin. A manual honey extractor uses a hand crank connected to gears. A motorized honey extractor uses an electric motor with speed control. HillCo carries both types in its honey extractor lineup, from three-frame manual models to larger motorized units. Tangential vs. Radial Design Inside the tank of the extractor is a “reel” that holds and secures uncapped frames while they are spun. Reels are designed to hold frames in a tangential or radial configuration. Tangential configuration positions frames parallel with the walls of the tank. One side of the frame faces the inner tank wall; the other side faces the center of the cage. In tangential configuration, only one side of the frame is extracted at a time. The frames must be flipped and spun again to extract the other side. A radial configuration holds the frames like the spokes of a wagon wheel. The top bars are positioned facing the inner tank wall. Honey is slung from both sides of the frame at once, assisted by the upward angle that bees build their comb. Frames do not need to be flipped or spun a second time. How Manual Honey Extractors Work A manual honey extractor spins frames using a hand crank attached to a gear system. The beekeeper controls speed by turning faster or slower. Most manual extractors hold two to eight frames at a time. Honey is thrown against the drum wall by centrifugal force, runs down the sides, and drains through a gate valve at the bottom. Frames need to be uncapped before loading, regardless of the extractor type. How Motorized Honey Extractors Work A motorized honey extractor replaces the hand crank with a motor and a speed controller. The beekeeper loads frames, sets the speed, and lets the electric motor do the spinning. Most motorized honey extractors offer variable speed control, which lets you start slow to protect fresh comb and ramp up as honey clears. Electric extractors range from small two-frame models up to large radial units that hold 20 or more frames at once. A motorized radial honey extractor loads frames like spokes in a wheel, so both sides extract at the same time without flipping. Manual vs. Motorized: Side-by-Side Manual Honey Extractor Motorized Honey Extractor Power source Hand crank Electric motor Typical capacity 2 to 8 frames 8 to 20+ frames Speed control Manual (crank speed) Variable speed dial Physical effort High, especially over long sessions Low, motor does the work Time Slow – small capacity and possible tangential configuration extends extraction time Fast – Can extract a full load of frames in less than 5 minutes (with added Spring Feet) Cost Lower upfront Higher upfront, saves time long-term Best for Small apiaries, Hobbyists Serious Hobbyist, Sideliners, Commercial operations Maintenance Minimal parts to maintain. Keep clean and dry. Grease friction points annually with food grade lube. Motor and electrical components. Keep clean and dry, grease friction points annually with food grade lube. Key Factors to Consider Harvest volume: A beekeeper with 2 to 5 hives may only process a few dozen frames per season, and a manual extractor handles that comfortably. As your apiary grows, investing in a motorized extractor allows you to extract more honey in less time. Budget: Manual extractors cost significantly less upfront. Motorized models cost more but reduce physical work and extraction time. Frame compatibility: Make sure the extractor fits the frame size you use. Most HillCo extractors handle standard Langstroth deep, medium, and shallow frames. We also offer a Layens frame extractor that accommodates the dimensions of the Layens frame as well as Langstroth frames. Which Is Right for You? Neither type is universally better. The best honey extractor is the one that matches your actual harvest, not the one with the most features. 1 to 5 hives with a small seasonal harvest: a manual honey extractor is practical and affordable, although some who have plans to grow will go ahead and start with a motorized extractor. 10 or more hives, or larger capacities: a motorized honey extractor saves time and reduces fatigue. Growing your operation: starting manual and upgrading to electric as hive counts increase is a common path but if you forecast growing from 3 hives this year to 18 or 22 hives in 2 years, you may consider purchasing a larger, motorized extractor that you can grow into. Radial and Tangential Centrifugal Extractors All honey extractors use centrifugal force. The difference is how frames sit inside the drum. Tangential: Frames sit flat against the wall. You extract one side, flip the frame, then extract the other. Most small manual extractors use this design. Radial: Frames load like spokes in a wheel, extracting both sides at once. Most larger motorized extractors use radial design for faster processing. Some models will extract mediums and shallow frames radially while extracting the larger deep frames tangentially. The HillCo E3, E8 and Maxx12 extractors work both radially and tangentially depending on the frame size. Is a Manual or Motorized Honey Extractor Better? A manual honey extractor is a good fit for hobbyists and small-scale beekeepers processing a limited number of frames each season. It costs less and works without electricity. A Motorized honey extractor is better for serious hobbyists, sideliners and commercial beekeepers handling larger harvests where speed and reduced physical effort matter. HillCo carries both manual and electric extractors built for all beekeepers. The best honey extractor depends on hive count, harvest volume, budget, and how much physical work the beekeeper wants during extraction. Many start with a manual honey spinner and move to a motorized honey extractor as hive counts grow. Once honey is extracted, the next step is transfer and bottling, so having that equipment staged before harvest matters just as much. [SPLIT]

July 17, 2026 • | By: HillCo Staff

How to Use Spring Feet to Stabilize Your Honey Extractor

Before You Start Set the extractor on a flat, solid surface and level it adding the Spring Feet, tightening the individual feet to ensure that the drum sits evenly. [SPLIT] How to Use Spring Feet During Extraction Once the extractor is level and loaded, set your speed by turning your speed dial to a moderate or high speed and then starting. Slow speeds exaggerate the wobble, so a slow start actually increases the wobble rather than running at the speed the extractor is built for. Get through the slow range quickly by turning your speed up at the beginning and let the Spring Feet do their job at full speed. Once at speed, observe the extractor as it should wobble less with more speed similar to a clothes washer on spin cycle. Spring Feet should hold the extractor steady with only a slight give as they absorb minor imbalances in the load. If a foot is bouncing, or the base is walking across the floor, stop and check that the feet are tight and that your speed is turned up before continuing the run. On long harvest days, take a moment between loads to ensure that the area is clean, and there is no debris on the feet or in the springs as this could impact performance. There is no grease or maintenance needed for the Spring Feet. Just keep them clear of debris (honey and wax) and keep your extractor clear of nearby obstacles. [/SPLIT] Why This Works Each foot combines a bolt with a spring and a rubber foot or shoe, giving the base a small amount of controlled flex instead of forcing it to sit rigid. That flex absorbs vibration at normal or higher spinning speeds, working with the extractor's momentum rather than against it. At low speed, the drum has not built enough momentum for that flex to do its job, which is why slow starts wobble more, not less. HillCo builds extractors around this kind of practical, field-tested hardware, so the rest of your honey house workflow can keep moving without the extractor becoming the bottleneck. Extraction times should be greatly reduced using Spring Feet since you are spinning at higher speeds from the beginning! Quick Troubleshooting Problem Fix Wobbles at low speed Expected. Bring it up to higher operating speed instead of easing in Still shakes at full speed Check that all feet are threaded snug and bearing weight evenly. Check to ensure your floor is level. Extractor walks across the floor Stop immediately and check for frame balance and proper positioning and ensure that all legs and feet are tight. Check for unbalanced loading or shifting.

June 08, 2026 • | By: HillCo Staff

How to Clean and Maintain a Honey extractor

Proper honey extractor maintenance is not complicated, but skipping it causes real problems. Residue buildup affects honey quality. Neglected bearings wear out faster. Moisture left in the drum after harvest leads to rust, even on stainless steel. [SPLIT] Whether you run a manual extractor for a small apiary or a motorized radial system during peak harvest season, a consistent cleaning and maintenance routine keeps your equipment performing reliably for years. This guide covers everything you need: post-harvest cleaning steps, a routine maintenance checklist, proper off-season storage, and common problems to watch for. [/SPLIT] [SPLIT] Why Honey Extractor Maintenance Matters A honey extractor is a food-contact surface. Everything inside the drum, baskets, honey gate, and bottom comes into direct contact with the honey you harvest and bottle. Cleanliness is not just about equipment performance. It is about food safety. Beyond honey quality, regular maintenance: Extends equipment life. Bearings, shafts, and gears last significantly longer when cleaned, lubricated, and inspected on schedule. Prevents rust. Even food-grade stainless steel can develop surface rust if moisture is left to sit after washing. Reduces repair costs. Catching worn parts early is far cheaper than replacing a full basket, shaft, or drive system. Protects comb. A clean, balanced extractor puts less stress on frames, which matters since preserving comb for reuse is one of the main advantages of centrifugal extraction. [/SPLIT] How to Clean a Honey Extractor After Each Harvest Clean your extractor promptly after use. Honey that dries in the drum becomes significantly harder to remove. STEP-BY-STEP CLEANING PROCESS: Drain remaining honey completely. Our quality extractors feature sloped bottoms that direct all honey toward the gate without tilting or scraping. Open the honey gate fully and let the drum drain before you begin washing. Warm water rinse first. Use warm water, not hot, for the initial rinse. Hot water can make honey stickier before it loosens. Warm water softens residue without cooking it onto surfaces. Wash with mild, food-safe soap. Use a small amount of unscented dish soap or a food-grade sanitizer. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners, bleach-based products, or abrasive scrubbers that can scratch stainless steel and create surface irregularities where bacteria or residue can collect. Clean the baskets and interior surfaces. Pay attention to the basket frames, or perforated surfaces, and the inside drum wall. A soft-bristle brush works well for getting into basket mesh without damaging it. Clean the honey gate. This is a commonly missed spot. Open the gate and flush it thoroughly. Crystallized honey builds up quickly inside gate valves and can restrict flow during your next harvest. Rinse completely. Make sure no soap residue remains. Any soap left inside will end up in your honey. Dry thoroughly before storage. Use a clean cloth to wipe down interior surfaces, then allow the extractor to air dry completely with the lid open before putting it away. Trapped moisture is the leading cause of rust on stainless steel extractors. Routine Maintenance Checklist Plan a maintenance inspection at least once per season, ideally before you start extracting and again before long-term storage. Moving parts: Inspect the central shaft for bending or wear at contact points. Hardware: Check the hardware. Vibration over time can lead loosening of hardware over time. Honey gate: Check the gate seal or gasket for wear or cracking. Replace if needed to prevent leaks during harvest. Electric extractors (additional checks): Inspect the motor housing for debris buildup around vents. Check the power cord and connections for wear, fraying, or damage. Test variable speed control through its full range before harvest season begins. Proper Storage Between Seasons If you are storing your extractor during the off-season, a few simple steps prevent problems when you pull it back out before the next harvest. Confirm it is completely dry. Even small amounts of moisture trapped in the drum can cause surface rust over a long storage period. Use a protective extractor cover to keep dust out while still allowing airflow. Store off the ground in a dry location away from direct moisture or temperature extremes. Run a brief inspection before first use each season. Check fasteners, gate function, and basket condition before loading frames. When to Replace Parts or Upgrade Equipment Most honey extractor issues can be resolved through maintenance, part replacement, or minor adjustments. Reputable extractor manufacturers support their equipment with compatible accessories and genuine replacement parts, including bearings, shafts, baskets, honey gates, and motor upgrade kits for compatible manual models. Consider part replacement or an equipment review when you notice: Persistent basket wobble that cannot be corrected by rebalancing Bearing wear that returns quickly after replacement Repeated honey gate failures or leaks Motor performance that declines despite proper maintenance If your operation is scaling up, more hives, longer harvest windows, or larger frame volumes, it is worth evaluating whether your current extractor matches your actual throughput needs. Options range from manual extractors for small-to-medium operations, to electric motorized units for expanding apiaries, to radial extraction systems built for commercial harvest volumes. HillCo offers a lineup covering each of these use cases, with genuine replacement parts and accessories to support long-term use. Browse the Honey Extractors Collection to compare specifications, frame capacities, and available upgrade options.

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